Up the mountain, Rifugio Lo Riondet is for rustic cooking with an emphasis on cheese. Le Meleze (+39 0165 885553) is a self-service near the top gondola station. At Maison Carrel there’s a warm welcome from Giorgio and Sara in a refurbished traditional chalet serving honest local dishes. It’s a friendly and unpretentious place located on the lower slopes of Gran Testa. La Clotze BBQ and grill is at the top of the Bosco Express chair and serves local Valdostana cooking. Bar du Lac (+39 0165 843209) is on the French border at the top of the pass. So too is Bar Ristorante San Bernardo (+39 0165 841444) with its Aosta Valley specialities, good wine list, and six double rooms for overnighters on fresh tracks missions. Pepita Cafe (+39 0165 883047) is warmly recommended by a reporter. It features home-made pasta, grilled meats and regional specialities. La Grotta (+39 0165 884474) is a converted cowshed serving classic Italian food. It is reached by courtesy minibus from the foot of the pistes.
From chocolate pizzas to donkey ravioli
In the resort, La Lisse has been going for 35 years and is known for its home-made pasta and ravioli, and has a good choice of local wines. Taverna Coppapan is a faux rustic hideaway nor far from the funivie; and there’s a great welcome here and a different menu each week. The cellar house 300 wines and pizzas are cooked on a wood-burning stove. La Fordze (+39 0165 883121) is for fresh fish and Aosta Valley specialities. La Grotta (+39 0165 884474) is in a former cowshed with a beautiful vaulted roof; it serves classic Italian fare including pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven. while La Rascard has chocolate pizza at the top of the kiddie wish-list. Le Thovex serves sophisticated Italian specialities, evenings only. Les Granges, 3km out of town, offers fondue, bagna cauda and grilled meats. Le Coq au Vin (+39 0165 885050) is Chalet Eden‘s bio restaurant where organic food is guaranteed. According to one British regular, Stefano, the owner, serves at least one unusual dish per weekend: last time he was there, it was donkey ravioli. “Very tasty”, he claimed.