At 3.30pm report for action at the Krazy Kanguruh, reached by the Gampen chair and piste numbers 22 or 23. Yes, we agree, it’s very early to be taking the skis off – but if you’re any later than this, you won’t get a table. And if you don’t have a table, what are you going to dance on? The famous bar, by the way, is owned by Olympic slalom gold medallist Mario Matt.
The apres-ski scene fully justifies its legendary status
From 5pm these days, the KK is only the warm-up for the main attraction: the MooserWirt a couple of hundred metres downhill. This has come a long way since it was a cowshed: it is now a boutique hotel as well as a bar with, rather anachronistically, 30km of plastic tubing delivering 5,000 litres of beer a day (and frightening amounts of Gluhwein and Jaegermeister) from the cellars to the bars – fuelling a couple of hours of mayhem. It’s like New Year’s Eve in there, every night. Before you enter, gather everybody in your group and agree on a place to put your skis that’s well away from the piste and can be easily found when you’re blind drunk. Then get stuck in.
If neither Steins of beer nor mainlining Vodka Red Bull are your scene, takes a few more turns down the hill and filter into Underground on the Piste (+43 5446 2000). This atmospheric bar, still run by the ageless Joan, has live music and loads of atmosphere. It shifted over here a few years ago when the lease ran out on the former premises. That’s unlikely to happen again – the bar is now in Joan’s house and is, in our opinion, the finest apres-ski bar in the resort.
The nightlife starts after dinner and goes on until late
From 8pm the decks at the MooserWirt are turned off and everyone goes home – downhill, on skis, and in the dark. You might want to leave a little early, or stay on to eat in the restaurant, thereby avoiding the carnage.
At 9.30pm phase two of a typical St Anton evening kicks off in the Piccadilly/Postkeller (+43 5446 22130) complex in the middle of town. The building is divided into two – at the front is the Piccadilly, which is where you go to drink and talk). Then, when you feel like dancing head to the Postkeller. At around midnight round off the evening in the nightclub of the Kandahar across the road, having cancelled all plans for an early start the following morning. Murrmel is the newest hot spot for apres-ski partying, with a DJ playing until the early hours. The style is typically Tirolean with lots of wood, but interpreted in a modern way.