On the mountain at Laax the partying starts at Cafe No Name (+41 81 927 73 44), a scruffily hip mountain hut that offers good cheap soups and snacks, great coffee (the tastiest on the mountain, so we’re told), music and the best views of the half-pipes and snowparks around Crap Sogn Gion. Which is why it is considered the hangout for freestylers taking a break from the slopes. Live music is a speciality.
In fact, the apres-ski scene in Laax explodes at the weekend when teens and twentysomethings pour in from Zurich. Our favourite is crapbar (+41 81 927 99 45) in Laax with its great range of drinks, good music and lots of atmosphere – it‘s particularly popular among boarders and freestylers. In rocksresort there’s Il Pup with a modern-rustic atmosphere. In Flims Dorf, Iglu Music Bar and Legna Bar are the main rendezvous. Living-room Flims is less frenetic. In Waldhaus Flims there are five different bars ranging from the relaxed Segnes Wine Bar to the Grand Bar for everything from aperitifs to after-dinner drinks accompanied by live music. In Laax, Casa Veglia is a disco favourite with occasional live concerts – but nothing can quite compare with the Riders Palace Club and Lobby at Riders Palace Designhotel, which is heaving at the weekend. There’s (loud) music at the lobby bar from 5pm until around 4am, every night – although it’s actually open from 7am onwards. At weekends, half of Zurich seems to be in there when there’s live music in the Palace Club downstairs from 9pm to 4am. Heaven help the poor sods upstairs trying to get some sleep – we hope the ear plugs that are handed out at reception will help.