Oh, yeah – if eating out is a big part of your skiing holiday, then you’ve come to the right place. What’s more, prices are a pleasant surprise in many of Madonna di Campiglio’s restaurants when compared with the A-list resorts of France, Switzerland and Austria.
Chalet Fiat and Doss del Sabion are the big treats on the mountain
The fine-dining restaurant at the recently-restored Chalet Fiat (+39 333 1938030) on Monte Spinale rocked our world on a recent visit: blueberry and taleggio risotto with porcini mushrooms, fillet of beef with chick peas and a spinach and bacon sauce…Everything was delicious.
But you can only enjoy this kind of cooking at dinner, on a Friday or Saturday night (you’re taken up by snowcat). During the rest of the week, the restaurant – owned by Fiat, the car company – is a lunchtime bar and self-service restaurant.
Another great place to eat on the mountain is a 16-minute gondola ride from the slopes at Madonna di Campiglio: on the top of Pinzolo’s ski area. Here, you’ll find the Rifugio Doss del Sabion (+39 0465 290101) – where Albanian chef Leonard Ceka turns out simple, unpretentious and utterly divine pasta. His taglioni with smoked ricotta, tomatoes and porcini mushrooms will light up any skiing day.
Back on the slopes immediately above Campiglio, the Ristorante Stoppani al Grostè, (+39 0439 68094) is up the terrain park at Grostè. It isn’t quite in the same league as the Chalet Fiat or Doss del Sabion, but they do a very good tortello di patate there, which is the Trentino version of Rosti.
A more established lunching institution is Cascina Zeledria (+39 0465 440303) just above the woods on Pradalago, below Piste no.7. Artini, the owner, is a well-known local chef specialising in regional Trentino dishes. If you’re lucky, you will get a tow by snowmobile back up to the piste.
Two big blowout meals await you in town
Top of your list should be the Stube Hermitage restaurant, in the Hermitage Hotel (+39 0465 441558)– a short taxi ride out of town. Here, you’ll eat fresh, bright Mediterranean flavours courtesy of Michelin-starred Paolo Capuccio.
Second on the list is Il Gallo Cedrone, a “tavern” on the lower ground floor of the Bertelli Hotel. There’s nothing remotely, tavern-ish about it. This is a spacious, serious-minded gastronomic restaurant which would love to have a Michelin star too – just like the Stube Hermitage.
Other high-points of the local dining scene include Da Alfiero, (+39 0465 440117) – known for homemade spaghetti and lamb cutlets in balsamic vinegar with asparagus – and Al Sottobosco, (+39 0465 440737), a kilometre from town, but worth the journey for its pappardelle ai mirtilli e funghi porcini (butterfly pasta with blueberries and porcini mushrooms).
There’s more. Artini, (+39 0465 440122), is famed for its risotto al funghi and its chocolate crepes. Al Sarca has wonderful homemade salami, grilled alpine trout, and panna cotta with woodland fruits.
In other words, loosen your belt and your purse strings – and enjoy yourself.