Photo: © Arnie Wilson.

It takes a long time to get to Livigno (at least 2½ hours by car from Innsbruck – 177km – and anything up to 4 hours by bus). Not for nothing is this remote ski area dubbed “Piccolo Tibet”. But once you’re there, it takes a long time to explore the Italian resort – both on and off the slopes. And – having travelled so far – there’s a huge choice of hotels. The village is a straggling ribbon development that’s strung out for 20km along a valley that comes to a full stop in the winter, denying easy access to the nearby Swiss border. There’s skiing on both sides of the valley: the Mottolino slopes reach 2710m, and the Cistaccia/Carosello terrain tops out at 2795m. Here are four reasons to visit:

The Great Snow

Redundant snow-cannons. Photo: © Michel Cranmer.

Livigno is one of the highest ski villages in the Alps – in fact the satellite village of Trepalle claims to be Europe’s highest inhabited parish – and has an excellent snow record. This winter was consistently good and we found wonderful conditions on April 1 (and we’re not joking). Even when we left a few days later, slightly chilly early mornings were keeping the snow in good condition on both sides of the valley. The large collection of snow-guns we encountered – corralled on the Mottolino mountainside – were almost redundant all season through, glinting in the sunshine like a flock of unrequired robots.
 

The Extensive Slopes

Photo: © Mario Mottini/Turismo Livigno.

There’s masses of skiing, especially for intermediates who will thrive on the wide open motorway pistes, although the comparative lack of trees (which gives the resort a bleak ambience if the sun isn’t shining) makes the terrain a little samey. With 114km of pistes served by 30 lifts, you won’t run out of different runs. Strong experienced skiers and snowboarders would benefit from hiring a guide to explore the extensive off-piste. Even better, take advantage of some exceptional heli-skiing at comparatively moderate prices: 250€ buys you two descents totalling at least 2000 vertical metres.
 

It’s Duty Free!

Photo: © Turismo Livigno.

Because it’s so isolated and for a long period had a history of poverty – no longer the case with the advent of tourism – Livigno still has a special tax status (first granted by Napoleon in 1805, so the story goes). It’s a duty-free area – inhabitants pay income tax but there’s no Italian VAT so tourists (and locals) can take advantage of some useful bargains, especially the tax-free petrol  at not much more than 1€ per litre. Other duty-free products include shoes, souvenirs, cigarettes and tobacco, alcoholic drinks, perfumes, cameras, electronic devices and leather goods. Even apart from its duty-free status, Livigno is more moderately priced than most ski areas in France, Switzerland or Austria.

Great Food in Town – And in Some Mountain Restaurants Too

Photo: © Carosello 3000.

We ate handsomely at our hotel – the Cristallo (dogs made welcome!) but the highlight was La Stüvetta gourmet restaurant at the Carosello 3000 where a gated outdoor section (ideal in good weather, or enhanced inside by a heart-warming pre-prandial Bombardino in less clement weather) offers superb fish dishes with a truly stunning mountain backdrop. Lobster, washed down with prosecco after a morning’s heli-skiing takes some beating.

One Reason Not to Go to Livigno

There’s no escaping the fact that it’s a long way! But the route from Innsbruck is certainly scenic, and it’s worth it when you get there.

Photo: © Turismo Livigno/Fabio Borga.

Fact Box

Crystal Ski offers a week half board at Hotel Cristallo from £785pp including Gatwick flights and resort transfers. Direct flights from all major UK airports available at a supplement starting at £20pp. Kids’ price is from £643 (sharing a room with parents). For more information on the resort and future events visit the Livigno website.

Livigno heli-skiing. Photo: © Vicky Norman.