The highest, most snowsure resort in the giant Portes du Soleil ski area, Avoriaz has a kooky charm – and a superb array of terrain parks. It’s a great destination in a good snow year: much less so when the snow’s thin on the lower slopes.
Altitude: 1800m
Lifts: 219
Top Lift: 2225m
Ski area: 650km
Adult lift pass: 360€ for six days
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Essential Advice for the Perfect Trip
Avoriaz is part of the Portes du Soleil – a trans-frontier alliance of a dozen ski villages in France and Switzerland, south of Lac Leman. It’s a vast and endlessly-varied playground, boasting 197 ski lifts, 650km of pistes, 10 terrain parks and oodles of off-piste in between. And it would be one of the world’s greatest ski areas if only it were a little higher.
Problem is, the highest lift in the Portes du Soleil tops out a 2466m, and many of the slopes are below 2000m. Several of the resort towns and villages are down at 1000m. That compares unfavourably with the A-list ski areas such as the Espace Killy and the Three Valleys – and it makes much of the skiing here vulnerable to the sudden thaws that can hit the Alps, even in January.
That doesn’t mean the lower slopes are snowless very often. Batteries of snow-cannons making the stuff artificially see to that. But it does mean snow quality is more variable than you’ll find in the likes of Val d’Isere, Courchevel or Val Thorens, with more icy mornings and more slushy afternoons on the pistes.
Still, the terrain is very good here – and the snowfall average for the highest slopes is one of the best in France (around eight metres a season – significantly higher than Val d’Isere, for example). Prices are noticeably lower than in some of its rivals, too. In a good, cold winter, you can have a blast here.
Avoriaz is not your average ski resort
Set at the top of a great cliff, in a high-ish mountain bowl, Avoriaz has always been one of the most forward-looking ski resorts in the Alps. Designed to be car-free, it’s based around a series of high-rise buildings that are linked by boulevard-style pistes on the outside, and stairs, lifts and covered walkways within. Most of the accommodation is in self-catering apartments, and some of it is brand-new. Nearly all of it is ski-in, ski-out.
It’s not just the look of the place that’s futuristic. Avoriaz has also had an open mind when it comes to the latest trends and was one of the early Alpine capitals of snowboarding. It built its first terrain park and half-pipe back in 1993. Ever since, it’s been a big supporter of freestylers, whether on one plank or two, and these days boasts three parks and a super-pipe, as well as a ground-breaking Stash forest park.
All of these add up to the reason why it’s such a big hit with young Brits, Swedes, Belgians and Dutch. And while it can’t match the likes of Val Thorens for apres-ski, it can still rock at night.
Anyone for a cute little ski village with a bit of history and a rough-hewn Alpine atmosphere should give it a wide berth. And we’d strongly advise against skiing here in a snow-drought or a warm spring. Not only will you find lots of the lower pistes closed, you’ll also find everyone from the lower villages congregating around Avoriaz, which can be unacceptably over-crowded as a result. But if you’re looking for convenience, spirit, skiing variety, and – above all – terrain parks, put it somewhere near the top of your hit-list.
Guide to the Mountain
Avoriaz is suited to all levels of skier and rider – with the possible exception of beginners. They will find the nursery slopes rather small, and the swirling crowds around them intimidating. A resort such as Alpe d’Huez or Morzine will suit them much better.
In a good snow year, when the lower slopes of the Portes du Soleil area (such as in Morzine and Les Gets) are covered, and the snow is soft, cold and grippy, intermediates will have a ball – because they can explore the full extent of this vast area, rather than endlessly repeating the same slopes. Although it is worth pointing out that the pistes in the immediate area, are also very good – especially in the Hauts Forts sector (which is where you’ll find the best-quality snow).
It’s a vast and varied playground
One thing to be wary of is “the circuit” – trying to ski round the whole of the Portes du Soleil in a day. As with Sella Ronda in Italy, completing a tour of the principal resorts in a single day restricts the amount of time actually skiing, with most of your day taken up riding lifts (a basic circuit requires riding 26 of the blighters). It makes more sense to explore one sector of the area at a time – deciding on where you want to go and the quickest way of getting there. One of the best areas to explore is Les Crosets, across the border in Switzerland. You’ll need to ride the chair-lift downhill to get there – thus avoiding The Swiss Wall. But once you arrive you’ll find lots of wide, north-facing pistes which hold their snow well.
Border controls are unusual, but not unheard of. We strongly advise you to carry your passport as well as both euros and Swiss francs. If you or one of your party has an accident along the way, you could be stranded in another country.
Bear in mind that when snow cover is poor, you’ll be restricted to skiing the slopes immediately around Avoriaz. In theory, that’s fine, but the problem comes when everyone migrates up from Morzine and other surrounding lower-altitude resorts. It can be very crowded as a result.
Try one of the classic mogul slopes of the Alps
Provided the snow’s good, advanced skiers will like it here too. There are some classic challenges here – notably the long and testing black that descends from Le Plan Brazy following the line of the FIS downhill course to Les Prodains. And The Swiss Wall (more correctly known as La Chavanette) which has a reputation as one of the most difficult descents marked as a black run on any piste map. In reality its bark is usually much worse than its bite, although the toxicity is dependent on the quality of the snow.
For anyone making their first turns on powder, there are plenty of bits and bobs to nibble at around the edges of the pistes (though there’s a lot of competition for these after snowfalls). More expert skiers will want to hire a guide and get exploring – there are for example some wonderful steep runs from the Hauts Forts sector down to Les Prodains (linked to Avoriaz by cable-car). When the snow’s good, there are plenty more awesome runs besides.
Finally the freestyle terrain here is superb. Avoriaz has definitely got its mojo back in this respect, and is, arguably, the best freestyle destination in the Alps.
A snowboarding stronghold
Avoriaz has a half-pipe, three terrain parks (the first was built in 1993): La Chapelle park is for beginners and intermediates, the challenging Arare is in the Hauts-Forts sector, and Trashers is for kids. Then there’s the innovative Stash – in association with Burton snowboards – a 1.3km, all-natural freestyle slope. Best of all, for the average freestyler, it also has a big air bag in La Chapelle, a giant plastic pillow you can throw yourself onto. What’s not to love about that?
But if the snow is good, then you need to ditch the tricks and get freeriding. Bear in mind that some of the best runs are through the trees, so you don’t want to wait till the skies clear to try them. Hire a guide, make sure he or she equips you with transceivers, shovels and probes, and get riding while the snow is still falling, and everyone else is indoors.
The Snowcross is the name given to selected ungroomed slopes that are surveyed by ski patrollers, who ensure safety by artificially setting off avalanches and fencing off any dangerous areas. For example, Les Crozats is a big wild area that starts from the Hauts Forts and joins the world cup downhill run down to Prodains, from where you can return to Avoriaz by the Prodains cable-car. Le Pschott is a natural bumpy run under the Brochaux chair-lift, consisting of several successive natural canyons.
Where to Learn to Ski in Avoriaz
Avoriaz has a good mix of ski schools, and an especially enlightened attitude towards the teaching of children.
Book with Maison Sport in Avoriaz for access to top instructors who know the best spots in this snow-sure, car-free resort.
The British-run Avoriaz Alpine Ski and Snowboarding School is a long-established presence here, and over the years, we’ve been been impressed by their upbeat and painstaking approach. More recently, top-notch British ski school New Generation has started operating in the Portes du Soleil. Its main base is down in the Morzine, but it’s offering private lessons in Avoriaz too. Take a couple of these, and they’ll make a big difference to the way you ski.
Among the French schools here are Evolution 2 Ecole de Ski et d’Aventure which received favourable comments from reporters, and the ESF. Both schools also teach snowboarding.
A lot going for it for families
Avoriaz has a lot going for it – it’s car-free, all the accommodation is ski-in ski-out, and it’s home to a highly-rated Village des Enfants/Village Snowboard, which cares for children from three years of age, using methods developed by the celebrated French ski champion, Annie Famose. It has over 100 instructors and supervisors working during peak periods. It even has an Ecole des Parents which offers lessons for six parents at a time and that fit in with the childcare hours and meeting places.
“I just can’t imagine a better family resort,” said a visitor. There is now a family-friendly British tour operator here, VIP Ski. And it’s also worth bearing in mind that another outfit, Family Ski Company has a big operation down in Ardent, a quiet, cute and small village within the Portes du Soleil lift system.
Hot on the heels of Stash is Lil-Stash for snowboarders – but little ones. It’s located in the Proclou area and is a succession of modules made from both snow and wood. There’s mini boarder-cross, a snake run, kicker size XS, woops, an area for slides and boxes, ‘the snow land area’ for making turns, a wooden bridge, and an area in the forest.
Meanwhile, P’tits Loups creche cares for non-skiing children from three months to five years.
Dogs, igloos and camp fires
Other activities for families in the resort include special dog-sledding trips for children. These are 10 minutes long and are available for children aged between nine months and 10 years of age. You can also have a ‘trapper evening’ in an igloo or teepee, reached by a 60-minute snowshoe trip. You then have a traditional mountain meal around a camp fire in the open air.
Where to Stay in Avoriaz
Most visitors to Avoriaz stay in apartments. The majority are small, basic and cheap, although a few have been attractively refurbished. As nearly all the skiing is from your door, location is unimportant. The apartments have been designed with skiing convenience in mind: so you won’t need to walk for miles in ski boots. The resort is car-free too, so children are safe to run around outside. There is also smattering of chalets here, run by British tour operators, and one exceptional hotel.
Where to Eat in Avoriaz
Avoriaz may not rival its neighbor Morzine for dining options, but there are still some great spots if you know where to look. Many lunchtime venues double as evening restaurants, offering a mix of cozy mountain charm and lively après energy.
La Cabane is a stylish spot for sushi and cocktails, perfect for those evenings that start with dinner and accidentally turn into late nights. Changabang is a high-energy pit stop serving up burgers and wraps, ideal for adrenaline-fueled skiers needing a quick refuel. Mamo’s Café is a snug, treehouse-like café serving the best crêpes in town, making it a must-visit for a comforting meal. La Terrasse is known for its cheesy delights and local goat specialties, with an après scene that can quickly escalate into an all-out party. Le Yeti is a cozy blizzard shelter serving up legendary loaded hot chocolates, perfect for warming up after a day on the slopes. La Fruitière at Folie Douce offers a high-end dining experience featuring fondue and lobster, often leading to an inevitable financial regret—but worth it. Mountain Piz’Burg is a grab-and-go favorite, fueling skiers with quick pizza slices and burgers for an energy boost on the go.
Best Places for Après in Avoriaz
Whether you prefer a lively dance floor or a more laid-back atmosphere, Avoriaz offers some excellent après-ski spots where you can unwind with a drink (or several) after a long day on the slopes.
Folie Douce is the ultimate après hotspot where ski boots meet tabletop dancing and champagne showers flow freely. The Place is a lively venue with live bands and DJs, offering a great atmosphere without the full-on chaos of some other après spots. Happy Hours Bar is an outdoor après venue with DJs, cocktails, and a snowy dance floor that keeps the party going well after sunset.
This guide to where to eat and après in Avoriaz has been provided by the resort team from SkiYodl.
Where to Party
Nightlife in Avoriaz is nothing compared with the likes of Val Thorens and Val d’Isere. But it has its moments. Several bars are open until late, but there is only one nightclub as such. The resort is popular with Danes and Swedes, which always adds to the interest. Le Yeti (+33 450 74 12 78) is a popular apres-ski bar with live music, where people like to go and relax on the sun terrace. Shooters (+33 450 74 07 22) is a cool bar that attracts a young crowd. But this winter a brand new Folie Douce opens on the piste, which will certainly add to the apres-ski.
The Place is a stronghold for Scandy-types, and has live music. It doesn’t get busy till late. Le Globe Trotters Cafe (+33 450 74 06 21) is a popular international pub with live music. It also serves gourmet crepes. Le Tavaillon bar/pub (+33 450 74 14 18) attracts predominantly young British customers. The Wild Horse Saloon (+33 450 74 72 29) has a good bar menu that includes Mexican dishes, and plays live music. Make sure you try one of their Wild Horse Jaegerbombs.
Le Yak (+33 450 49 51 66) is the only real nightclub in Avoriaz – playing house music and open until 5am. The other late-night spots are Le Choucas and Le Fantastique (+33 450 74 09 15) for its cocktails. If you’re after something a bit more laid back and, well, grown-up, then head to Hotel Les Dromonts.
The Great Outdoors Music Festival takes place in Avoriaz at the end of March. It features artists of the French and international pop/rock scene, with free concerts which you can access with your lift pass. A skating rink at the heart of the pedestrianised resort is floodlit until 8pm each day and has a terrace for spectators.
Aquariaz is the resort’s indoor water park. It features lush vegetation and rocks: a river with a variable gentle current, a slidewinder (a kind of aquatic half-pipe), a water playhouse, a paddling pool, a large pool with climbing walls, massage benches and an open-air spa heated to 34 degrees.
Avoriaz is offering eFatBike this winter. The eFatbike is an electrically assisted bike with oversized wheels for a good grip on the snow. The activity is being offered twice a week as an apres activity in the eFatbike initiation zone, allowing everyone to try the electric bike on snow, on a specially smoothed area. The MTB school MCF offers eFatBike outings including Full-Moon outings and Evolution 2 has eFatBike outings during the day and evening.
And the Apres is about to get a whole lot better as La Folie Douce is opening up on the weekend of the 14th December 2019! So now Avoriaz has it all!
What a fair report of Avoriaz. I first skied there in 1971 and have watched it grow over the years and your report is just as i see it today.